Guide 03 · Hair

Improve your hair: cut, volume and care

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Hair occupies an important place in appearance, for both men and women, as it is a key part of facial harmony.

The objective is therefore not to have a cut trend , but choose a hairstyle adapted to your face, hairline, density and natural texture.

Indeed, wanting to reproduce the cup of a celebrity whose physical characteristics are very different from yours is a frequent mistake.

01

Part 1 — The importance of hair in facial harmony

Chapter 1 — The Facial Third Party Rule

The face can be divided vertically into three-thirds facial :

  • on higher third, approximately from the hair line to the eyebrows ;
  • on average third, eyebrows to the base of the nose ;
  • on lower third, from the base of the nose to the chin.
Female face divided into three thirds, with the upper third highlighted from the hair line to the eyebrows
The upper third, from the hair line to the eyebrows, can be enhanced or mitigated by the volume of the hairstyle.

According to a classic aesthetic marker, the harmony of the face corresponds to a distribution close to 33 % / 33 % / 33 % between three thirds.

The hair is particularly interesting since it allows visually modify the upper third without actually changing the face structure.

For example, when a higher third seems relatively short compared to the rest of the face, creating more height and volume on the top can visually increase this part and contribute to a more balanced impression of proportions.

Conversely, a very flat hairstyle can accentuate the impression of a short upper third.

The hair is therefore not only used to frame the face: it is a real tool for working its visual proportions.

Chapter 2 — Hair and face proportions

The height of the forehead also plays a lot on the perception of the upper third.

If your front appears relatively large or high, a fringe or hairstyle brought slightly forward can mask a part of it and visually reduce its height.

Hairstyles that reduce the height of the forehead
For her
  • Straight or tapered fringe
  • Curtain fringe
  • Woven wicks
For him
  • French crop
  • Caesar Cup
  • Textured fringe

Conversely, if your forehead looks rather small or if your upper third seems short, further clear the forehead and create volume upwards can help to extend this area visually.

A hairstyle fully pulled back further exposes the forehead and hairline. It can therefore be interesting when these elements are considered strong points, but it can also accentuate a front already very present or a hairline with which you are less comfortable.

Haircuts that clear the forehead
For her
  • Hair pulled backwards
  • High horsetail
  • Short cut off the face
For him
  • Quiff
  • Pompadour
  • Hair styling back

This should be considered forehead, hairline and hairstyle as a set, rather than choosing a cut independently of the face.

02

Part 2 — Choose a hairstyle for your face

Chapter 1 — Identify what your hair naturally does

Before choosing a cut or trying to reproduce a hairstyle seen on someone else, watch your hair without a product.

Consider in particular whether they are:

  • stiff, wavy or curly;
  • thin or thick;
  • low or very dense;
  • naturally oriented forward or rearward;
  • subject to ears;
  • easy or difficult to volume.

A hairstyle that works with your natural texture will generally be much easier to maintain on a daily basis.

Chapter 2 — Use volume intelligently

Adding volume on top can give the impression of a slightly longer face and visually increase the upper third.

Conversely, keeping more width on the sides can be interesting for a particularly long or narrow face.

Chapter 3 — Do not choose a cut only because it is trendy

A spectacular cut on one person can work much less well on another.

Several elements must be taken into account:

  • the proportions of the face;
  • the forehead;
  • capillary line;
  • density;
  • natural texture;
  • the length of the face;
  • face width;
  • easy maintenance.

The goal is to find a hairstyle that highlights your own characteristics, and not to perfectly reproduce that of another person.

03

Part 3 — Styling and adding volume

Chapter 1 — The hair dryer is much of the work

The styling product is not the only one responsible for holding a hairstyle.

The direction given to the hair during drying greatly influences the final result.

To create more volume, you can in particular slightly dry the roots in the opposite direction to their natural fall before gradually placing the hair in the desired direction.

The hair dryer makes it possible to create a large part of the structure before even applying a styling product.

However, avoid excessive heat directly against the scalp and hair.

Chapter 2 — Choose the right styling product

The ideal product depends mainly on your hair type and the desired result.

Fine hair:

  • light texturizing spray;
  • volumizing powder with moderation;
  • light matte paste.

Thick hair:

  • styling cream;
  • paste;
  • clay according to the desired hold.

Curly or wavy hair:

  • Leave-in light;
  • curl cream;
  • gentle drying;
  • diffuser if necessary.

Always start with a small amount of product. It is much easier to add it than to remove it.

04

Part 4 — Caring for your hair

Chapter 1 — Find a suitable washing frequency

There is no perfect washing frequency for everyone.

It depends in particular on:

  • scalp;
  • production of sebum;
  • sport;
  • hair length;
  • styling products used.

If your scalp quickly becomes fat, regular washing may be necessary.

If your lengths tend to become dry, concentrate the shampoo mainly on the scalp and use your after-shampoing or care on lengths.

The goal is not to space shampoos at any cost, but to find a routine adapted to your hair.

05

Part 5 — Density and hair loss

Chapter 1 — Do not ignore a real loss of density

Poor hairstyle, very fine hair or certain lighting conditions can sometimes give the impression of a lack of density. On the other hand, when a gradual and real decrease in density becomes visible, it is better to try to understand the cause rather than just try to mask it with a hairstyle.

At Men as in women, minoxidil is one of the main treatments used against certain forms of hair loss, including androgenetic alopecia. It can help maintain density and, in some people, promote partial regrowth. Its effectiveness usually requires prolonged use: when the treatment works then is interrupted, the benefits obtained tend to disappear gradually.

Although some topical forms of minoxidil are available without a prescription by country, certain density loss deserves first medical or dermatological advice. A hair loss can have several origins and not all treat themselves in the same way. In women in particular, it is important to avoid other possible causes before concluding an androgenetic alopecia.

Chapter 2 — Finasteride in man

In humans with androgenetic alopecia, finasteride is also one of the main medical treatments possible. It works by reducing the production of DHT, a hormone involved in the progressive miniaturization of follicles in genetically predisposed people.

However, it is a matter of medicinewith possible contraindications and side effects. Its use should therefore be discussed with a doctor or dermatologist to verify that the diagnosis corresponds to an androgenetic alopecia and that the treatment is suitable for the person.

As with minoxidil, its action is usually not definitive: when effective treatment is stopped, natural progression of alopecia may resume.

Chapter 3 — What possibilities for women?

Finasteride is generally not recommended in women, especially in women who are pregnant or who are at risk of developing a male fetus. However, it may be used in certain special situations and under specialized medical supervision, particularly in certain menopausal women. Therefore, it should not be regarded as a treatment to be used independently.

In women with female alopecia, a doctor may consider spironolactone. This medicine has an antiandrogen action and is commonly used by dermatologists in certain forms of female hair loss. However, it is a medical use which requires a prescription and an assessment of possible contraindications.

Treatment therefore depends heavily on the cause of the fall: minoxidil is often the reference treatment, while other treatments can be added or proposed by a dermatologist according to the patient's profile.

Chapter 4 — Hair transplant

When hair loss is sufficiently stabilized and the donor zone allows it, the hair transplant may also be a surgical solution.

Contrary to a common idea, it does not concern only men: some women may also benefit from a hair transplant, especially when their hair loss type and density in the donor area lends it. However, not all forms of dialopecia are compatible with a transplant.

The graft can move follicles from a relatively fall-resistant area to areas with insufficient density.

This surgery, its indications, its limits, the techniques used, the possible results, the risks and the elements for determining whether it deserves consideration are discussed. much deeper in the premium guide on cosmetic surgery.

Discover the premium guide on cosmetic surgery →
06

Tips

To avoid the effect helmet , heat a small amount of product into your hands and gradually distribute it. Add only if necessary: a slightly textured hairstyle retains more movement than a hairstyle frozen by too much product.

In brief

Guide summary

Hair is a major component of a glow-up in both men and women.

They may:

  • visually modify the proportions of the face;
  • balance the upper third in relation to the other facial third parties;
  • visually increase or reduce the height of the forehead;
  • changing the perception of face length and width;
  • better frame the lines;
  • bring volume, texture and character to the face.

Before looking for the most trendy cut, start by understanding your facial proportions, forehead, hairline and nature of your hair.

In case of loss of real density, do not necessarily simply mask it: a medical diagnosis made early enough can identify the cause and consider appropriate treatments.

A good hairstyle is first and foremost the one that works with your face and hair.

Useful products for this guide

My selection of useful hair products

The hair dryer helps to give volume during drying; Sea salt spray brings texture without freezing the hairstyle.

Sea salt spray Slick Gorilla
Texture and finishing

Sea salt spray Slick Gorilla

Sea salt spray to create texture, volume and soft finish. Start with a small amount.

See the spray on Amazon

A useful question

How do I choose a haircut for my face?

Consider face shape alongside texture, density and cowlicks. A suitable haircut should also be easy for you to style.

Finasteride requires medical advice and can cause psychiatric and sexual side effects. In France, dispensing 1 mg requires a prescription and an annual shared-information form. Discuss the benefits and risks with your doctor.

Sources and further reading

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